Overview
This 830-point solderless breadboard is the full-size workhorse of prototyping. With 63 tie-point rows and four long power rails, it's big enough to host a microcontroller, multiple sensors, a handful of ICs, and all the jumpers in between — no soldering, no PCB etching, no commitment.
The 2.54mm (0.1") pitch matches every Arduino, ESP32, Raspberry Pi Pico, STM32 Blue Pill, and DIP chip on the market. Push components into the spring-loaded contacts, bridge tie-points with jumper wires, and you have a working circuit in minutes. When the prototype works, move it to a permanent PCB — or leave it on the breadboard as long as you like.
At a Glance
Terminal Strips
63 Rows × 2 Columns
Power Rails
4 Rails (2 × 100 Points)
Adhesive Back
Yes (Removable)
Specifications
| Parameter |
Value |
| Total Tie Points |
830 (630 terminal + 200 power rail) |
| Terminal Strip |
63 rows × 10 holes (split down the center by a trench) |
| Power Rails |
4 rails, each 100 tie points, split mid-rail |
| Hole Pitch |
2.54mm (0.1") on a standard grid |
| Accepted Lead Gauge |
22–26 AWG solid wire (ideal), 0.4–0.7mm IC leads |
| Contact Material |
Nickel-plated phosphor bronze spring clips |
| Body Material |
ABS plastic |
| Voltage Rating |
300V DC max (per column) |
| Current Rating |
2A per contact (continuous) |
| Board Dimensions |
165 × 55 × 10 mm |
| Backing |
Adhesive foam tape (peel-off) |
| Operating Temperature |
-20°C to +80°C |
How to Use
The board is split into two mirrored halves. Each numbered row has two sets of 5 holes that are electrically connected within their half — so holes a-b-c-d-e are bridged, and holes f-g-h-i-j are bridged, but the trench between them separates the two. Drop a DIP chip across the trench so each leg lands in its own isolated tie-point.
The outer red and blue strips are power rails. Each rail runs 50 tie points, then breaks at the middle — join both halves with a single short jumper if you want continuous rails across the full length. Power your circuit by connecting 5V/3.3V to the red strip, ground to the blue, and then jump each terminal row as needed.
Tip: Use 22 AWG solid-core wire for clean breadboard jumpers — it pushes in firmly, holds its shape, and pulls out without fraying. Pre-cut jumper wire kits save hours of stripping and trimming.
Plays well with: Arduino Uno/Nano, ESP32 DevKit, Raspberry Pi Pico/Pico W, STM32 Blue Pill, 74-series logic ICs, and almost every 2.54mm-pitch sensor breakout ever made.
Power rail split: Most 830-point breadboards have rails that break at the center. Run a short jumper across the gap if your project needs the full length of VCC or GND on one rail — otherwise one end will appear "dead."
Frequently Asked Questions
How are the holes electrically connected?
Each terminal row has two 5-hole groups (a-b-c-d-e and f-g-h-i-j). The 5 holes in each group are connected, and the two groups are separated by the center trench. Power rails run the length of the board (but usually break at the middle — see the warning above).
What size wire works best for jumpers?
22 AWG solid-core wire is the classic choice. 24 AWG also works fine. Avoid stranded wire — it frays and can stick in the contacts. Pre-made Dupont male-to-male jumper kits are the fastest option.
Can I use this for high-current circuits?
Up to about 2A per contact is safe for short runs. For motors, high-current LED strips, or power-hungry loads, run the high-current path on solid wire off-board and use the breadboard only for the logic/signal side of the circuit.
Do both power rails connect end-to-end?
Often no — most 830-point breadboards split each power rail in the middle. Some versions are continuous. Check your board with a multimeter and, if the rails are split, bridge them with a short jumper to get a continuous rail from end to end.
Will it fit an Arduino Mega?
The Mega itself sits next to the breadboard (not on it) because of its longer PCB and dual-row headers. Wire the Mega's pins to the breadboard with male-to-female Dupont jumpers. For Uno/Nano/Pro Mini, you can plug them directly into the breadboard.
Can I mount the breadboard?
Yes — peel off the paper backing and the adhesive foam sticks to any flat surface. For reusable mounting, skip the adhesive and use double-sided tape or screw the board to a project base via its mounting clips (some boards have them along the edges).
Related Tutorials
