Documentation

ShillehTek 400-Point Small Solderless Breadboard for Arduino Pi | ShillehTek Product Manual
Documentation / ShillehTek 400-Point Small Solderless Breadboard for Arduino Pi | ShillehTek Product Manual

ShillehTek 400-Point Small Solderless Breadboard for Arduino Pi | ShillehTek Product Manual

Overview

A solderless breadboard is the workhorse of electronics prototyping: a reusable grid of spring-contact holes that lets you build, test, and change circuits without soldering. The ShillehTek 400-point breadboard is a compact, single-board version that fits an Arduino UNO, a Raspberry Pi Pico, or an ESP32 dev board plus plenty of sensors and support circuitry — perfect for desk builds, classroom kits, and travel projects.

The board has 400 tie points arranged as two central 30-row terminal strips (each row of five holes electrically connected) plus two pairs of long power rails running along the top and bottom edges. Standard 2.54 mm pitch means it accepts any through-hole component, solid-core wire in the 20-29 AWG range, and our Dupont jumper wires.

This manual covers the internal connection layout, recommended wire gauges, how to integrate it with Arduino, ESP32, Raspberry Pi, and Pico projects, a minimal LED + pushbutton "hello world" circuit you can wire up in under a minute, and FAQs covering common beginner pitfalls.

At a Glance

Tie Points
400 total
Terminal Strips
2 × 30 rows (5 holes each)
Power Rails
4 rails (2 top, 2 bottom)
Pitch
2.54 mm (0.1 in)
Wire Gauge
20-29 AWG solid core
Dimensions
~82 × 55 × 8.5 mm

Specifications

Parameter Value
Tie Points 400
Layout 2 terminal strips of 30 columns × 5 rows + 2 power-rail pairs
Hole Pitch 2.54 mm (standard DIP)
Accepted Wire Solid-core 0.3 - 0.8 mm (20-29 AWG)
Contact Material Phosphor bronze springs, nickel-plated
Body Material ABS plastic
Max Voltage ~36 VDC recommended (adjacent-row creepage)
Max Current per Tie Point ~1 A continuous
Insertion Cycles 50,000+ per hole (typical)
Backing Adhesive foam (peel-off)
Dimensions ~82 mm × 55 mm × 8.5 mm

Internal Connection Layout

Understanding which holes are electrically connected is the single most important thing to learn about a breadboard. Here is the layout:

  • Power rails (top & bottom): two long horizontal rails on each edge, usually labeled with red (+) and blue/black (-) stripes. Each rail runs continuously across the full length of the board. On the 400-point size, the rails are not split — you have one continuous rail per stripe.
  • Terminal strips (middle): two blocks of 30 columns, each column having 5 holes. The 5 holes in a column are connected to each other vertically, but not across the central gutter. The gutter is there so you can plug a DIP chip across it with different signals on each side.
Info: Think of each 5-hole column as one electrical node. If you want a sensor pin and a resistor lead to connect, plug them into the same column.

Wiring Guide

The breadboard is platform-agnostic — it is just a reusable connection grid. What matters is how you wire power and signals from your microcontroller onto it. The tables below show a safe starting pattern for each popular platform.

Arduino Wiring

Run two jumpers from the Arduino to the breadboard's power rails so every component on the board has easy access to 5V and GND.

Arduino Breadboard
5V Top red (+) rail
GND Top blue (-) rail
5V Bottom red (+) rail (optional, for symmetry)
GND Bottom blue (-) rail (optional)
Tip: Always connect ground first and remove it last. This protects your microcontroller from accidentally seeing a transient voltage through a signal pin while ground is floating.

ESP32 Wiring

Many ESP32 dev boards are too wide for a 400-point breadboard (they cover both terminal strips and leave no free columns). For mixed projects, place the ESP32 on the edge and use the far side of the breadboard for sensors, or pair this 400-point board with a second one for the sensor circuitry.

ESP32 Breadboard
3V3 Top red (+) rail (3.3V)
GND Top blue (-) rail
VIN / 5V Bottom red (+) rail (for 5V loads only)
GND Bottom blue (-) rail
Warning: Do not connect the 3.3V rail and the 5V rail together. Keep 3.3V on one rail pair and 5V on the other, then draw from whichever the component needs.

Raspberry Pi Wiring

Use a 40-pin GPIO ribbon cable with a T-cobbler if you have one, or jumpers direct from the header. The Pi GPIO is 3.3V only — never connect 5V signals directly to any GPIO pin.

Raspberry Pi Breadboard
Pin 1 (3.3V) Top red (+) rail
Pin 6 (GND) Top blue (-) rail
Pin 2 (5V) Bottom red (+) rail (for 5V peripherals)
Pin 9 (GND) Bottom blue (-) rail
Warning: Pi GPIO can sink/source only about 16 mA per pin. Use a transistor or MOSFET on the breadboard when driving LEDs in parallel, relays, or motors.

Raspberry Pi Pico Wiring

The Pico is a perfect match for this breadboard — it fits neatly across the central gutter leaving pins accessible on both sides. All GPIO is 3.3V.

Pico Pin Breadboard
3V3(OUT) (Pin 36) Top red (+) rail
GND (Pin 38) Top blue (-) rail
VBUS (Pin 40) Bottom red (+) rail (USB 5V, when USB is plugged in)
GND (Pin 3) Bottom blue (-) rail
Tip: Place the Pico so its USB connector hangs off the breadboard edge. That way you can plug/unplug USB without disturbing your circuit.

Code Examples

A breadboard itself has no code, but here is a minimal blink-plus-button circuit you can wire in under a minute to validate a new board. An LED with a 220 ohm resistor on D13, and a pushbutton between D2 and GND with INPUT_PULLUP. Every row below is a tie-point column on the 400-point board.

Arduino

breadboard_sanity.ino
// Breadboard sanity check:
// - LED + 220 ohm resistor in series, cathode to GND rail, anode to D13
// - Pushbutton between D2 and GND rail (uses INPUT_PULLUP)

const int LED_PIN = 13;
const int BTN_PIN = 2;

void setup() {
  pinMode(LED_PIN, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(BTN_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP);
  Serial.begin(9600);
}

void loop() {
  // Blink once per second
  digitalWrite(LED_PIN, !digitalRead(LED_PIN));

  // Print button state so you can verify the rails are wired correctly
  Serial.print("Button = ");
  Serial.println(digitalRead(BTN_PIN) == LOW ? "PRESSED" : "released");

  delay(500);
}

Raspberry Pi (Python)

breadboard_sanity.py
# Same circuit, on the Pi:
# - LED + 220 ohm to GPIO17
# - Pushbutton from GPIO27 to GND, pulled up in software

import time
from gpiozero import LED, Button

led = LED(17)
button = Button(27, pull_up=True)

while True:
    led.toggle()
    print("Button pressed" if button.is_pressed else "Button released")
    time.sleep(0.5)

Raspberry Pi Pico (MicroPython)

breadboard_sanity_pico.py
# - LED + 220 ohm resistor on GP15
# - Pushbutton between GP14 and GND, using the internal pull-up

from machine import Pin
import time

led = Pin(15, Pin.OUT)
btn = Pin(14, Pin.IN, Pin.PULL_UP)

while True:
    led.toggle()
    print("pressed" if btn.value() == 0 else "released")
    time.sleep(0.5)

Frequently Asked Questions

Which holes are connected to each other?
In each terminal strip, the 5 holes in a vertical column are connected. The central horizontal gutter separates the two terminal strips, so a column on the top block is NOT connected to the column directly below on the bottom block. The long edges are continuous power rails.
Why are my connections intermittent / loose?
Usually one of three things: (1) you are using stranded wire instead of solid-core, (2) the wire is thinner than ~29 AWG and the spring contact cannot grip it, or (3) the hole has been overworked and the spring is stretched. Try a fresh row.
Can I power motors, speakers, or relays from this breadboard?
Each tie point is rated for ~1 A continuous. Small servos, 5V relays, and piezo buzzers are fine. For bigger motors and higher currents, wire the power rails directly to a dedicated supply and keep the MCU on a separate rail, sharing only ground.
Are the power rails split in the middle?
On the 400-point size, no — the rails are continuous from end to end. This is different from the 830-point full-size boards where the rails are often broken in the middle and need to be jumped.
What wire gauge should I use?
22-24 AWG solid-core is the sweet spot. Our Dupont jumper wires are pre-cut and pre-tinned for exactly this kind of board. Avoid stranded wire unless it is tinned on the end.
Can I connect two 400-point boards together?
Yes. The sides have interlocking tabs so you can snap boards edge-to-edge to create a wider working area. Just remember to bridge the power rails with short jumpers so both boards share the same supply.
How many insertion cycles will it survive?
Manufacturers typically rate the contacts at 50,000 insertion cycles per hole. In practice you will only notice degradation in holes you use dozens of times a day for a year or more. For daily classroom use, plan on replacing heavily-used boards annually.

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