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200PCS Electrolytic Capacitor Kit 0.1uF 50V to 220uF 10V with Plastic Box | ShillehTek Product Manual
Documentation / 200PCS Electrolytic Capacitor Kit 0.1uF 50V to 220uF 10V with Plastic Box | ShillehTek Product Manual

200PCS Electrolytic Capacitor Kit 0.1uF 50V to 220uF 10V with Plastic Box | ShillehTek Product Manual

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Overview

A 200-piece electrolytic capacitor assortment covering the most-used capacitance values from 0.1 µF up to 220 µF across multiple voltage ratings, organised in a labelled plastic case. Electrolytic capacitors are the workhorses of power-supply filtering, decoupling on every Arduino, ESP, and Pi project, audio coupling, RC timing networks, and inrush-current snubbers. This kit gives you a ready supply for replacing failed caps in vintage equipment, building new circuits, or stocking a workshop.

The included case has individual labelled compartments so you can immediately find a 100 µF 16V or a 47 µF 25V without rummaging through 200 loose components. Aluminium-electrolytic construction with axial / radial leads (depending on value) means standard through-hole soldering — drop them straight onto a breadboard or stripboard.

The capacitance values cover the common bypass / smoothing range and span small ceramic-equivalent values up to bulk-storage caps suitable for power-supply input filters on a 5V or 12V rail.

At a Glance

Total Pieces
200
Type
Aluminium electrolytic, polarised
Capacitance Range
0.1 µF – 220 µF
Voltage Range
10V – 50V
Tolerance
±20% typical
Storage
Labelled plastic box

Specifications

Parameter Value
Total Pieces 200 capacitors
Capacitor Type Aluminium electrolytic, radial-leaded
Polarity Polarised (mark observe + and − orientation)
Capacitance Range 0.1 µF (100 nF equivalent) up to 220 µF
Voltage Range 10V to 50V (de-rated for safety; never exceed marked rating)
Tolerance ±20% typical (electrolytic standard)
ESR Standard (general-purpose, not low-ESR)
Operating Temperature -25°C to +85°C
Lead Spacing 2.0 - 5.0 mm radial (varies by size)
Storage Plastic case with labelled compartments per value

Typical Values Included

Common capacitance / voltage combinations in this kit (exact list varies by batch):

Capacitance Voltage
0.1 µF (100 nF) 50V
0.22 µF 50V
0.47 µF 50V
1 µF 50V
2.2 µF 50V
4.7 µF 50V
10 µF 50V
22 µF 25V
33 µF 25V
47 µF 25V
100 µF 16V or 25V
220 µF 10V or 16V

Common Use Cases

Application Typical Value(s)
Microcontroller Vcc bulk decoupling 10 - 100 µF across the supply
Microcontroller per-pin local decoupling 0.1 µF next to the chip
Linear regulator output (LM7805, AMS1117) 10 µF + 0.1 µF
Audio AC coupling between stages 1 µF - 10 µF
RC timing for 555 timer (slow blink) 10 µF to 100 µF
DC-DC buck converter input filter 22 µF or 47 µF
USB power-input bulk smoothing 100 µF
ESP32 / ESP8266 transient suppression 220 µF + 0.1 µF across Vcc
Polarity Warning: Electrolytic capacitors are polarised. The negative (−) lead is marked with a dark stripe down the side of the can; the positive (+) lead is the longer one out of the package. Connecting reverse-biased causes the cap to vent / pop / catch fire after a few seconds to minutes. Always double-check orientation before powering up.

Reading the Cap

Each capacitor's body is marked with two key numbers:

Marking Meaning
Capacitance (e.g. "100µF" or "100uF") The capacitance in microfarads. Sometimes shown as "10" with no unit, in which case interpret per the cap's size.
Voltage (e.g. "16V", "25V", "50V") Maximum allowable DC voltage. Always pick a cap rated for at least 1.5x your expected supply voltage.
Polarity stripe Dark stripe down the side — the side it's on indicates the negative terminal.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are these polarised? Can I just put it in either way?
Yes, they're polarised. The dark stripe = negative; the longer lead = positive. Putting it backwards will eventually destroy the cap and may cause it to vent fluid, smoke, or rupture. Always check orientation before powering up.
Why do my circuits sometimes work without the bypass cap?
They might work for short periods, but you'll see noise, brownouts, intermittent resets (especially on Wi-Fi-heavy ESP code), or audio hum. The 0.1 µF decoupling cap is cheap insurance against these problems — always include one next to every IC's Vcc pin.
What's the difference between electrolytic and ceramic capacitors?
Electrolytic: high capacitance (1 µF+), polarised, larger physical size, higher ESR, used for bulk smoothing. Ceramic: low capacitance (typically < 1 µF, often nF/pF), unpolarised, smaller, lower ESR, used for high-frequency decoupling. For most projects you want both: a big electrolytic for bulk + a small ceramic for high-frequency noise.
My old caps look slightly puffed at the top. Are they bad?
Yes — bulging electrolytics are a sign of failure (electrolyte gas pressure deforming the can). Replace them. Common in vintage motherboards, old monitors, or PSUs that have been sitting unused for years. This kit is great for those repairs.
How do I de-rate for safety?
Pick a voltage rating at least 1.5x your expected DC voltage. For a 5V rail use 16V or 25V caps; for 12V use 25V or 35V; for 24V use 35V or 50V. Never run a cap at its rated voltage continuously.
Do these have low ESR?
Standard ESR — general-purpose, not specifically low-ESR. For high-current switching applications (high-power buck/boost converters at > 1A) you may want dedicated low-ESR caps. For Arduino, ESP, and small-signal work these are fine.