Documentation

120PCS M3 Hexagon Copper Pillar Screw Kit with Plastic Box | ShillehTek Product Manual
Documentation / 120PCS M3 Hexagon Copper Pillar Screw Kit with Plastic Box | ShillehTek Product Manual

120PCS M3 Hexagon Copper Pillar Screw Kit with Plastic Box | ShillehTek Product Manual

Overview

A 120-piece M3 standoff (hex copper pillar) and screw assortment, organised in a labelled plastic case. Use these to space PCBs above an enclosure floor, stack two boards into a sandwich (Pi + HAT, Arduino + shield), mount a heatsink or a fan, or build any kind of mechanical bracket where a clean, threaded brass spacer is the right answer.

The kit includes male-to-female pillars in multiple lengths (the most common for stacking), female-to-female pillars (for between-board spacing without a screw on top), and the matching M3 screws and nuts. Brass / copper-plated steel construction means they're strong, conductive (useful for grounding), and don't rust. The hex shape lets you tighten with pliers or a small spanner instead of a Phillips driver.

Use this for Raspberry Pi cases, Arduino-shield stacks, robot frames, instrument panel mounts, drone PCBs, lab fixtures, or anywhere you need to lift one board off another by a fixed distance.

At a Glance

Total Pieces
120
Thread Size
M3 (3 mm metric)
Material
Brass / copper-plated
Hex Width
~5 mm across flats
Includes
Pillars, screws, nuts
Storage
Labelled plastic case

Specifications

Parameter Value
Total Pieces 120
Thread M3 (3 mm diameter, metric coarse)
Hex Width Across Flats ~5 mm (fits a 5 mm spanner or small adjustable)
Body Material Brass / copper-plated steel
Finish Polished copper / brass
Standoff Lengths Typically 5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 20, 25 mm (varies by kit)
Standoff Types Male-to-female (M-F) and female-to-female (F-F)
Screw Length Typically 5-8 mm M3 cheesehead or pan-head
Nuts M3 hex nuts
Storage Plastic case with labelled compartments

Standoff Types

Type Description Use Case
Male-to-Female (M-F) Threaded male stud on one end, threaded female socket on the other Stacking PCBs — the male stud goes into a board hole and is secured with a nut on the other side; the female end accepts another stud or screw
Female-to-Female (F-F) Both ends are threaded sockets The middle of a stack — takes a screw from one board and a stud from another, or two screws (one each end)
Hex Nut Standard M3 hex nut, ~5.5 mm flats Locking a male stud through a board, or as a replacement for the kit's screw nuts
Pan-head Screw M3 × 5-8 mm Securing the top of a stack, or fastening a panel to a standoff

Common Use Cases

Application Recommended Pillar
Raspberry Pi 4/5 mounted in a 3D-printed case 4× M-F 8 mm or 10 mm pillars + 4× M3 screws
Arduino Mega + shield stacking 4× M-F 12 mm pillars + nuts
Two PCBs sandwiched at fixed spacing 4× F-F (length = desired gap) + screws on top & bottom
40×40 mm fan mounted on a 3D-print case 4× M-F 5 mm or 6 mm pillars
OLED display held above a sensor PCB 4× F-F 6 mm + 8 screws
Drone flight controller stack (FC + ESC + LED) M-F 10-15 mm pillars between layers
Single-board fastening to mounting plate 4× M-F pillars (any length); screw into base plate, screw board onto top
Tip: Brass/copper standoffs conduct electricity. If you want them to act as a chassis-ground bridge between PCB and enclosure, use them metal-to-metal. If you want isolation (some PCBs need it), use nylon standoffs or add a fibre/plastic washer.

Common M3 Hardware Reference

Item Standard Size
M3 thread pitch (coarse) 0.5 mm/turn
M3 hex nut width across flats 5.5 mm (4 mm small, 5.5 mm regular)
M3 screw clearance hole 3.2 - 3.5 mm (drill bit: 1/8" or 3.2 mm)
M3 tapped hole drill size 2.5 mm (drill, then tap)
M3 socket head cap screw allen key 2.5 mm hex
M3 pan/cheesehead Phillips PH1 cross-driver

Frequently Asked Questions

Will these fit Arduino mounting holes?
Yes — Arduino Uno R3, Mega 2560, and most Arduino-compatible boards use M3 mounting holes. The Pi 4 / 5 also uses M3, as do most ESP32 dev boards and shield kits.
Can I cut a longer standoff to make a custom length?
In a pinch, yes — brass cuts cleanly with a hobby saw or hacksaw. Sand the cut end smooth and try not to deform the threads. For repeated custom lengths it's better to buy the right length, but for a one-off it works fine.
My standoff threads keep stripping. What's wrong?
Brass is softer than steel. Cross-threading or over-tightening damages the threads. Tighten by hand or with light spanner pressure only — if you need a torque wrench you're going too hard. For applications where strip-resistance matters use steel standoffs instead.
Are these copper or brass?
Brass body with a copper-coloured plating finish. Brass alone gives a yellow-green colour; the visible copper-pink tint is the plating. Both are conductive and corrosion-resistant for indoor use.
Will these work in a 3D-printed enclosure?
Yes — you can either heat-set them into PLA/ABS (use a soldering iron at low temperature to melt them in), drop them into a printed-in pocket and trap them with a screw, or thread directly into the 3D-printed plastic with the M-F's male end (use a pilot hole sized for the M3 thread + 0.2 mm).
Are these ESD-safe?
For metal-to-metal mounting, brass standoffs do not introduce static-charge problems. They're conductive, so charges drain to ground (assuming the enclosure is grounded). For sensitive parts, follow normal ESD-handling protocols regardless of the mounting hardware.